| Time for a deep winter manicure. Note the long, whip-like branch growth characteristic of pear trees. |
| Back view. |
So, why do we bother to prune?
As Lewis Hill says in his book, Pruning Made Easy, we are no longer in the wilderness anymore. There are a lot more people on this planet with limited amounts of land to grow on, so when a tree falls over and dies, we have to wait up to 10 years before a new one can replace it and produce for us. By maximizing the potential of a single tree to produce, we can save space and time by essentially speeding up the natural process of "shedding" branches.
Pruning improves sunlight access among the canopy, increased air flow for disease control, and stimulates a heavier fruit crop that the tree would otherwise not bother to expend the energy on. When left alone, trees are more concerned with producing a smaller number of offspring while the rest of their resources are spent on vegetative growth.
Pruning improves sunlight access among the canopy, increased air flow for disease control, and stimulates a heavier fruit crop that the tree would otherwise not bother to expend the energy on. When left alone, trees are more concerned with producing a smaller number of offspring while the rest of their resources are spent on vegetative growth.
When a fruit tree does well, we are not the only ones who reap the prize. There are the all the soil microorganisms, birds, mammals, and even air and water quality that benefit from a thriving tree. After much discussion about the human role as co-creator of habitats around the world (like a keystone species) , using the knowledge we've gathered about our surroundings to optimize their function in a way that benefits everyone.
| Closeup of water sprouts. |
Pruning is based off of a few principles that have not changed much since our ancestors first began managing the growth patterns of their crops (though our tools are probably better).
What to look for:
-Crossed or overlapping branches
-Downward or vertical growing branches
-Twigs that are basically just in your way
More guidelines to follow when pruning include:
-Using SHARP TOOLS to make clean cuts- messy cuts do not heal evenly and risk infection.
-Cutting at a slant to accelerate the healing process and avoid rot, helping to dry and seal off the new "wounds".
In the following pictures, I demonstrate the initial, quick cuts that I could reach from the ground or from in the tree and were small enough to cut with hand pruners. My next post will feature the larger, more strategic cuts that I wanted to make with a bandsaw and pair of loppers.
| Same branches AFTER... |
| |
| South facing lower branches BEFORE... |
| Northeast facing branches BEFORE... |
| ... and AFTER. |
| Vertical growing branches we don't want to encourage... |
| More problematic branches that are too out of reach and block sunlight. |
Resources:
1) Hill, Lewis. "Pruning Made Easy: a gardener's visual guide to when and how to prune everything, from flowers to trees." Pownal, VT: Storey Pub., 1997. Print.
2) Michael Phillips. "Holistic Orcharding". White River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green Publishing, 2013. Film.
3) Shepard, Mark. "Restoration Agriculture: Real-World Permaculture for Farmers." Austin, Texas: Acres U.S.A., 2013. Print.
3) Shepard, Mark. "Restoration Agriculture: Real-World Permaculture for Farmers." Austin, Texas: Acres U.S.A., 2013. Print.

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