Pears for Your Heirs

The Endicott Pear, a 348 year old pear in Danvers, MA.

Walnuts and pears you plant for your heirs...

-17th century English proverb

One of the most remarkable characteristics of pear trees are their lifespans. While apples are hardier and reach maturity sooner than pears (making them less picky in our New England climate and a quicker financial return), they do not last nearly as long. Most fruit trees might last 100 years if they escape the hardships of disease and weather. Apples will typically live between 40 - 50 years, yet a pear can be regularly expected to last 100+ years! Hence the proverb.

In search of an example of this longevity, I came across a few articles about the Endicott pear, which is the oldest cultivated fruit tree in the United States. Around 384 years old, the tree traveled across the Atlantic with Governor John Endecott and some of the first colonists of the Massachusetts Bay area in Danvers, Massachusetts. Planted some time between 1630 and 1649, it has survived damage from multiple hurricanes  and even after getting hacked by vandals in 1964 with little attention other than some pruning and a chain-linked fence.

Scions and germplasm samples have been taken from the Endicott pear, as the living monument has borne fruit since the early days of Colonial America up to the present. I find it remarkable that the act of planting a single tree can have such a large effect on future generations, which reminds me of one other proverb that I found:

He who plants trees loves others besides himself.

-Thomas Fuller, 1732, Gnmologia

This philosophy is deeply ingrained in my education here at Sterling College, and I find it comforting to think that whichever path I choose as a homesteader, farmer, businesswoman, or researcher (or all of the above I haven't decided which yet) I can still be an environmental steward who makes positive decisions for those who come after me.   

Resources:
1) Martin, Gary . "Pears for your heirs."Phrases.org. Gary Martin, n.d. Web. 7 Apr. 2014.
2) "Endicott Pear Tree." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, 14 Jan. 2014. Web. 8 Apr. 2014.
3) Howard, Jacqueline. "Oldest Known Fruit Tree In U.S. Still Bears Pears After Nearly 400 Years (VIDEO)." The Huffington Post. TheHuffingtonPost.com, 28 Aug. 2013. Web. 8 Apr. 2014.

Farmer Interview: Liz Lauer from Maine

This past summer, I had the pleasure of taking a three day road trip along the Maine coast with two women who wanted me to meet some of their fellow homesteading, capable, strong female friends who had all once been connected through MOFGA (Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association). It was a wonderful way for me to wrap up my 10 week internship in New Hampshire, which had led me to question ideas I' d had about the ability to make a living through small scale diversified farming.

The last couple I met - Liz Lauer and Chris Blanchard of Springfield, ME - gave me a burst of new ideas about what I could do with my future. They have over a 100 acres, which is mostly in in hay and a great deal of organic wholesale fruit - all kinds of berries, grapes, apples, and pears - through the cooperative known as the Crown of Maine. This is also not to mention all of the produce they grow and process for themselves to last the entire winter and spring.

I knew since the very beginning of my senior project that I wanted to interview her about her experience growing pears in a pretty tough region in Maine. What is especially fascinating to me is her long time relationship trialing apple and pear varieties for Fedco Trees.  

I was ready to print out adoption papers after being there only a few hours. Most of what you see in the front of the house are grapes and pears. 

She rattled off more than three dozen varieties of pears, both old and new, most of which I hadn't heard of. I doubt that many people will ever get the opportunity to taste more than a half dozen in their lifetimes. Many of the hardiest and most disease resistant ones had come out of Quebec.

We talked about the explosion in interest for heirloom varieties in apples, which she says did start happening much until the 80s when she first got involved with the back to the land movement. We shared ideas about why the pear hasn't managed to be as popular as the apple with both growers and consumers - that the shape of the fruit don't pack quite as tidily as apples, that there's a lack of education on how to properly wait for them to ripen, the negative feedback loop of market demand for the same three varieties that are actually some of the least competitive against disease and pests.

Liz in particular loves pears because they store so well and add a wonderful variety to her winter pantry. She makes all sorts of juices, fruit sauces and fruit leathers, which she thought might be a gateway for earlier season pear production in New England, with other opportunities for winter storage pears. "It will most likely not be me to start that up. I hate marketing, I want nothing to do with it!" She said, and then went on to tell me how it takes a certain kind of person to hold that role with the public. Being so far out in rural Maine poses a challenge for farmers who need to get their products closer to their customers, but with the increase in wholesale distributors, seem to make it easier for them to live so far out as they like it.

Lix also brought up an interesting point about climate change and how it has seemed to affect the growth of her pears. The winters in Maine have been more unpredictable - sometimes milder than normal, or dipping dangerously cold in other years that kill off some of the more tender varieties.

Though she doesn't make quite so much anymore, Liz is an incredible wine maker. I remember distinctly that she said the apple and pear mead we tried with dinner that day (photo above) were not very good! 

Farmer Interview: Tom Parlow of Walden Heights Nursery

I wanted to interview a farmer who was familiar with pears that I could have theoretically driven a reasonable distance to meet, and Walden Heights Nursery was one of the first I could think of. Two summers ago, I went on a field trip there with my organic crop production class to experience a nursery and farm that was making the effort to develop and acclimate fruit trees, shrubs, and canes that were suited for our growing area.

This concept has been a fixation for me ever since, and may very well be the kind of path I choose for myself whenever I feel ready to consider graduate school or start a business (or both?).

After playing phone tag for about week with Laura Parlow, Tom's wife, I was grateful that even though this is the busiest time of the year for them - pruning, grafting trees, preparing and sending out orders - he was willing to make time to talk to me. I'd originally said I wouldn't take more than 15 minutes to interview him, but we ended up talking for over an hour.

He provided a much different perspective on pears than what I've come across in my research or from what I've heard from other growers. From what I remembered on the field trip and reading through documents posted on the nursery's website, he has taken on the farmer-researcher role to observe, experiment, and replicate the kind of results that suit his mission. I was very pleased to listen to him talk about the two varieties they developed on their own. "We run out of pears every year," he said, no matter how many more they try to graft to keep up with the interest of their customers. "There wasn't much interest in them until about 20 years ago."

I asked him what characteristics make them so popular, why he liked them, what he found was challenging. Tom admitted that while "the texture of pears is hard to beat, they probably aren't as popular in the heirloom industry as apples due to the more limited flavor profiles." He and his family loved canning them in particular, and mentioned trying their hand at making wine but "pears get so mushy that they clog the mesh nets" and sometimes need to have apples or even rice hulls added to bulk the pulp up.

Wow! What a great perspective.

It was also interesting to hear him debunk some of the universal facts that the books and extension papers repeated over and over, about pollination problems, fire blight and other diseases, the long wait for maturity. When I asked about these things, he said that he has not experienced these issues - that pears take about as long as apples do to reach bearing age, around 4 - 5 years, none of that "pears for your heirs nonsense" he said. He believes that with properly selected varieties, you can largely avoid most of the disease problems. He also said he thought the fruit were less susceptible to insects since they are so hard and are picked unripe.

There was much more we talked about, but my notes got messier and messier the more excited I got in our conversation. I hope to speak with him more in the future, and travel back for another visit at the farm.

Resources:
1) Walden Heights Nursery Homepage

Natural Dyeing

Ooh! I'm excited to finally have the time to experiment with fiber arts in the realm of my senior project. Natural dyeing was one of my top favorite topics in the fiber arts class I took in spring 2012, among the wool processing, spinning, and knitting that I fell deeply in love with.

I had to reserve this experiment until after I'd finished pruning the pear tree behind Simpson, so I could gather bark and twigs that otherwise will get composted. There is also a box of dried foliage that I collected on impulse last fall, even before I knew that I was going to do my senior project on everything-about-pears.

Potential colors from pear leaves (top four color blocks) and pear bark (bottom four blocks).

Most people have probably used acid-wash dyes like Kool-Aid or Rit to make tie-dyed shirts, which usually produce reliable, dependable colors. Natural dyes behave quite differently and requires an attitude that welcomes or  tolerates unpredictability. Variations in which part of the plants you use at what time of the year and even the mineral content of your water can vary the results.

Depending on the dyestuff being used, fiber will require some pre-treatment to open up the fiber molecules to accept and hold onto color. Liquid solutions of metallic salts, known as mordants, are a solution of metallic salts like ferrous oxide (iron), copper sulfate, or alum.

Three skeins of yarn, three different mordants to prepare them for the dyebath! I actually ended up using only the untreated wool and the alum-mordanted wool.

The Wild Color book gave instructions to cold soak enough bark to equal half the weight of the amount of wool used (0.5: 1), or an equal weight of foliage to wool (1:1). The author also mentioned that due to the presence of tannins in the bark, I should be careful about how much heat I use to extract the dye for fear or creating an acidic vat that might felt my yarn. I thought, okay, no problem!

Alchemy -transforming one thing into another! Notice how the alum mordant (on the far left) produces no color change in the fiber, while the ferrous oxide characteristically turned the yarn a rusty color and the copper sulfate.  

I had originally hoped to make a strong enough dyebath to submerge four differently treated skeins of wool yarn in to see how the mordants would affect the colors... unfortunately, nothing seemed to come out as I had hoped, and my camera died on me so I didn't catch any pictures of the dye vats.  

Alum mordanted wool on the left, untreated wool on the right. 

I had  to make some compromises. I weighed each skein of yarn, and whittled enough bark for the given dyestuff to wool ratio, but the color of the dye was dark and tea colored (tannins anybody?) and gave a surprising weak take after several days of cold soaking and being simmered on very low heat. Almost no color! Instead of four skeins of yarn, I cut back to just the untreated natural yarn and the alum-mordanted yarn.

Then I tried the foliage dye, to see if it would do anything different. It, too, produced a dark tea colored dyebath that gave very little color after soaking for three days.

 The takeaway? Shades of beige are often the default color. Perhaps a zen mind capable of nonattachment is partly necessary for the natural dyer.

I considered the age of the materials I used to make the dyebath - dried leaves from many months beforehand, and the peeled bark of freshly pruned branches. Perhaps fresh leaves and older barks give a better color?

The experiment deserves another set of trials, but alas, I have running out of time as the semester winds down. I'm not entirely disappointed, as one student who said to me, "They look like pear colors."

They'll make a nice hat or set of mittens!

Resources:
1) Dean, Jenny. Wild Color. New York: Watson-Guptill Publications, 1999. Print.

The Magic and Science of Grafting

On Saturday, April 5th I drove out to the Old Stone House Museum in Brownington, Vermont where I had the opportunity to attend Michael Phillips' annual class on grafting and pruning. For $50, I got to learn how to graft apple seedlings from a renowned ecological orchard grower, ask him questions face to face, and watch him work with a loving and sure hand on very old, very neglected crab apples.

I was the youngest attendee there, surrounded by DIY type folk (and some of their elderly parents) who were interested in learning how to save money and become more self-sufficient, as well as propagating the old, unidentified fruit trees they treat like family members on their property.

Grafting, in essence, is the union of a plant that we want the fruiting charactertistics of (the scion) with the rootstock of another plant that has disease resistance or hardiness.

The union heals and grows together due to the nature of totipotency, where every cell in the plant organism has the blueprints to clone itself into an entirely new individual, and differentiate cell tissues into their particular roles. The origin of this fusion is made possible by lining up the cambiums of the cuttings, which is the region that new growth takes place in the stem.

Example of whip-and-tongue grafting.
Courtesy www.fruitforum.wordpress.com.

The ancient Chinese and Roman cultures discovered this "magic" nearly 4,000 years ago, using string, wax, or manure to bind the graft together. Theorphrastus of Eeresos refered to this and other popular management methods that were used to "punish the trees" and make them bear earlier.

Nowadays, people use rubber grafting bands and tar tree wound dressing to get the job done. The method I was introduced to here is known as whip and tongue grafting, so I won't get into the other types as I have only read about them.

Grafting knife and tree wound tar.

Key elements to making a successful graft include:

• Selecting similarly sized rootstock and scions 
• Clean, flat cuts that match up nearly perfectly
• Make 45 degree angled cuts about 1.5" long, for good contact
• Bind the scion onto the rootstock in the direction it originally grew on the tree!
• Let all of the little wood pieces fall on the ground so they don't get mixed up on the table
• Binding tightly, and generously dab with tar 
• LABEL as soon as you're done! 

I worked with a specialized grafting knife that had a single bevel, and had to get over cutting towards myself as we were all told NOT to do as kids. It's really the best way, I've found, to control the angle of the cuts. I didn't sustain my first injury until after I'd performed about 15 grafts and happened to be teaching my plant science class the how-to, and cut a decent flap of skin on my left index finger. It's healed up nicely now.

All grafts should be stored in a consistently cool, dry area for about a week to allow the union to heal, and then can be transferred to a nursery area in the garden where they can be watered and trained for the first two years of its life. After that, they can be transplanted to their final destination!

Okay... I had to put up these pictures of previous on-tree grafting that Michael Phillips did! Cool stuff!

Resources:
1) Old Stone House Museum - Adult Education Classes
2) Holistic orcharding. Dir. Michael Phillips. Perf. Michael Phillips. Chelsea Green Publishing, 2013. DVD.
3) The Pear in History, Literature, Popular Culture, and Art by Jules Janick

A Botanical Illustration

I suppose it may seem a little backwards to get to this part now, but honestly it seemed appropriate to reopen a new growing season (albeit slow and cold) to speak about the characteristics that define Pyrus communis. The winter and early spring season present the opportunity for reflection and in-house experimentation, but it's time we move outside...

The European pear is a member of the Rose Family (Rosaceae) and therefore a close cousin to the apple, quince, hawthorn, and even the mountain ash. There are 20 species in Pyrus, many of which grow wild in the south central Europe, Russia, and western Asia.

As a temperature fruit, they can be grown in plant hardiness zones 4 - 9, where the trees are provided with at least 800 - 1000 hours of temperatures below 45F but not frequently further than -20F.

Pears are one of the first fruit trees to bloom in the spring, one to three weeks earlier than apples - putting the fruit crop at the risk of frost damage, depending on the conditions of the springtime.

They do best in well drained loamy soils between the pH range of 6 - 7 (slightly acidic to neutral), but can tolerate heavier clay soils than apples can.  

In Vermont, we're typically Zones 4 and 5. For a better look at this map, go to ARS USDA website.

European pears will grow up to 50+ feet tall. The long, vertically reaching branches could be described as "Octopus-like", as Tom Parlow of Walden Heights Nursery said to me. Furrowed greyish bark of an older tree; they are smooth when young. Shiny, simple, alternate dark green leaves; often finely serrated.

Picture courtesy www.discoverlife.org.

Picture courtesy www.dendro.cnre.vt.edu.

Courtesy 1ms.net.

The flowers are perfect... perfect, as in containing both male and female parts on the same flower!

There are between 15 - 20 stamens and 2 - 5 carpels, with their ovaries in an inferior position.The flowers look very similarly to apple blossoms, though they often smell bad or have no perceived fragrance. Typically white or tinged pink.

Courtesy from a botanical print on www.etsy.com.

The fruit is known as a pome -  which is an accessory fruit that is not classically an enlarged ovary that surrounds the seeds. Instead, the edible portion we love is the enlarged stem that once connected the flower to the branch. The actual ovary wall is the paper skin encasing the seeds.

Resources:
1) Hedrick, U. P., and G. H. Howe. The pears of New York. Albany: J.B. Lyon Co. printers, 1921. Print.
2) Weaver, Sue. "Heirloom Pears." Hobby Farms. I-5 Publishing, n.d. Web. 29 Apr. 2014.

Senior Project Presentation

Guess what's happening this Saturday on April 19th? I get to present on my senior project presentation! And you know what that means? I get to talk about pears and all of the wonderful social and natural history that surrounds them! I even purchased four varieties to put out as samples for people to try...  

Family, friends, and community members are welcome to come see my senior project presentation "A Cross Disciplined Approach to the Pear". It begins at 9:30am in room 3 of the Simpson building here at Sterling College. I'll be setting up a display with all of the finished and unfinished projects I've been trying to document on this blog. 

Everyone is also welcome to attend the other senior project and senior applied research project presentations on Friday April 18th from 6:30pm - 9:30pm, and those on Saturday morning starting at 9:00am.

They'll be perfectly ripe by the time Saturday morning gets here...

Interview Questions

I came up with a list of questions to ask a few farmers I wanted to interview for this part of my project, focusing on the horticultural management of pears in New England. Here they are...

INTERVIEW QUESTIONS

1.      Describe what your mission is and what you do on your farm.

2.      Why did you decide to grow pears?

3.      What percentage would you say they make in volume and sales on your farm?

4.      Over the years, how has managing them compare to other fruit trees you grow?

5.      How many trees do you have?

6.      Which cultivars are they?

7.      What characteristics did you look for when selecting the cultivars?

8.      What do your customers look for in pears?

9.      Why do you think they aren’t as widely grown as apples are?

Fun Fact: Best Way to Eat a Pear

It's not that this is the WRONG way... but it's sweetest by the stem. 

My plant science professor, Charlotte, was born in Denmark and told me once that everyone in the U.S. eats pears the wrong way. It didn't occur to me that there was a correct way, but I found a passage in Harold McGee's book On Food and Cooking that said that pears accumulated more sugars at the top near the stem. Remove the stem, and consume.

Apparently, eating pears like apples (going for the widest part first) can reduce our experience of the pear! Another little tip to improve our relationship to the fruit. We can't fully appreciate them unless we understand them!

Resources:

On Food and Cooking, by Harold McGee

Pruning, Pt. II

Flagging from the first round of pruning to remind me of what I decided to take off.

Trudging around in almost waist deep snow, I found, either made pruning more difficult or helpful depending on how packed down it was! 

There are several features in this tree's structure that concern me and have proven to make harvest difficult. In the picture below, I circled the three major branches that have dominated the canopy. Notice how they became bowed under the weight of fruit over the years, continuing to grow up and out so that no one could harvest or prune them!

While I've become slightly more confident in my make thoughtful cuts, I still get a little nervous when I make the larger ones. Several books that I've consulted about reviving old fruit trees recommend spreading major cuts over 3 - 5 years, being careful not to remove more than one third of the vegetation per season. Pears need to be handled more carefully in this regard, as they are known for sending out tons of tender growth after major pruning that are very susceptible to fire blight (which I will write about soon, among other common pests and diseases). Ultimately, they said to only to prune if the tree could improve from it.  

I made some big cuts with the saw to open up the top of the canopy, leaving some for next year to prevent shocking the tree into growing too much this coming season.

AFTER picture.

   

Verticial growing branch... no more growth for you!

Great examples of both overly upright and downward growing branches on the same limb! 

I left the flagger on the branch on the left, thinking next year it could be fully removed...

Out of two proud, very straight growing water sprouts coming out of the truck, I selected one with hope for a more balanced tree in the future. I headed it back by a few inches because it was over three feet tall! If the garden crew can pay careful attention, they might be able to train new vertical branches from it to replace the one that got torn down last fall.

Pruning, Pt. I

Time for a deep winter manicure. Note the long, whip-like branch growth characteristic of pear trees.

Last week, I started tackling Sterling's single pear tree behind Simpson. At this time last year, I began teaching myself how to identify problematic growth patterns out of books and YouTube videos. This tree drew my attention the most, as it was wildly beautiful after many years of neglect (growing whichever direction it willed) but had not borne much fruit as a consequence and was beginning to show winter damage. Whether it was the pruning I did or just was a coincidentally good year, it bore over 300 lbs. of pears in September 2013!

Back view.

Trees naturally shed their branches by the activity of strong winds, snow and ice storms, fires, the browsing of animals and insects, and the falling of nearby trees. They can even induce certain parts of themselves to die off with hormones like abscisic acid that may have become inefficient in conducting nutrients for the organism (an example may be a branch that does not enough access to light) or is diseased or water stressed.

So, why do we bother to prune? 

As Lewis Hill says in his book, Pruning Made Easy, we are no longer in the wilderness anymore. There are a lot more people on this planet with limited amounts of land to grow on, so when a tree falls over and dies, we have to wait up to 10 years before a new one can replace it and produce for us. By maximizing the potential of a single tree to produce, we can save space and time by essentially speeding up the natural process of "shedding" branches.

Pruning improves sunlight access among the canopy, increased air flow for disease control, and stimulates a heavier fruit crop that the tree would otherwise not bother to expend the energy on. When left alone, trees are more concerned with producing a smaller number of offspring while the rest of their resources are spent on vegetative growth.

When a fruit tree does well, we are not the only ones who reap the prize. There are the all the soil microorganisms, birds, mammals, and even air and water quality that benefit from a thriving tree. After much discussion about the human role as co-creator of habitats around the world (like a keystone species) , using the knowledge we've gathered about our surroundings to optimize their function in a way that benefits everyone.      

Wound leftover from wind damage in September 2013. Two heavy limbs came down and left an ugly gash, off-balancing the modified central leader shape the tree was originally trained in. Note the dark heartwood.

Closeup of water sprouts. 

Pruning is based off of a few principles that have not changed much since our ancestors first began managing the growth patterns of their crops (though our tools are probably better).

What to look for:
-Crossed or overlapping branches
-Downward or vertical growing branches
-Twigs that are basically just in your way

More guidelines to follow when pruning include:

-Using SHARP TOOLS to make clean cuts- messy cuts do not heal evenly and risk infection. 

-Cutting at a slant to accelerate the healing process and avoid rot, helping to dry and seal off the new "wounds". 

-Cut larger branches in stages to avoid splits and jagged breaks.

In the following pictures, I demonstrate the initial, quick cuts that I could reach from the ground or from in the tree and were small enough to cut with hand pruners. My next post will feature the larger, more strategic cuts that I wanted to make with a bandsaw and pair of loppers.  

Same branches AFTER...

  

South facing lower branches BEFORE...

 

Northeast facing branches BEFORE...

... and AFTER.

Vertical growing branches we don't want to encourage...

More problematic branches that are too out of reach and block sunlight.

Pile of watersprouts. This was everything I could reach from the ground or sitting up in the tree. Just think- it's all growth from last season, carbon taken out of the air and formed into material. Now they're destined for the soil.

Resources:

1) Hill, Lewis. "Pruning Made Easy: a gardener's visual guide to when and how to prune everything, from flowers to trees." Pownal, VT: Storey Pub., 1997. Print.

2) Michael Phillips. "Holistic Orcharding". White River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green Publishing, 2013. Film.
3) Shepard, Mark. "Restoration Agriculture: Real-World Permaculture for Farmers." Austin, Texas: Acres U.S.A., 2013. Print.

Secondary Fermentation

This weekend, I set up shop in my dorm room to rack (or siphon) my two gallon batch of apple-pear wine into two smaller experimental batches and check on its progress. I meant to do this before leaving for spring break at the end of February...

Looking a little oxidized...

I washed and sanitized everything in my dorm bathroom, choosing inefficiency over the hassle of packing my equipment to drive over to another residence hall. Granted, I ended up making my room smell like a speakeasy for a few hours from the wine I spilled on my floor.

I hit my target ABV (alcohol by volume) of about 13 - 14%. After spitting out two mugs worth of yeasty wine while trying to create capillary action on my makeshift tube system, I can attest that it's probably much closer to 14%. Strong stuff!

SG (starting gravity) 1.100

FG (final gravity)      0.990

It's still a young wine, so I wasn't expecting it to taste all that great. I took note of the dark oxidization that has occurred (the apple juice I used was dark to begin with), and the cloudiness (probably from the pectin in the unfiltered pear nectar, which I can deal with later). I threw in some different herbs and spices to create the following two, one-gallon experimental batches:

Pear Orange Spice on the left, Pear Ginger Hawthorne on the right.

~ Pear Ginger-Hawthorn Berry (two tea bags of ginger tea, and 4 TB of dried hawthorn berries)

~ Pear Orange-Spice (two tea bags of black tea, 2 TB of dried orange peel, 2 cinnamon sticks, 8 cloves, 2 star anise)

            

 

I don't expect fermentation to restart, since all available sugars have been consumed by the yeast, but this is the time for the flavorings to infuse and allow the wine to bulk age before bottling in a few weeks. I might grate a few pears and toss them into the wine to see if I can get more pear flavor, and it might be a good idea to back sweeten one or both of them.  

We shall see...

Gifts

I've taken great delight in how many friends and family associate pears with me now, mentioning to me that they did this-and-such dessert with poached pears one night or that they heard something on the radio. Some have begun to keep them on hand for when they know I'm visiting, so we can cut them up to share as a snack.

A few have even given me gifts, which have tickled me at the spontaneous manner they were given.

In December before the school left for winter break, my friend, Kendra, brought me a little clay pendant she made in her pottery class...   

"I sort of made this by accident, but then it reminded me of you so I made it look more pear-like," she said.

Last night, another one of my friends, Jesse, stopped by with a bag of four different varieties of pears he saw at a co-op and said something to the effect, "Well, I know you're really into pears, so I got you one of each."

From left to right: two Bartlett (sorry Jesse, they're the same, except one was riper!), Bosc, and Green D'Anjou.

Thank you to everyone who entertains my enthusiastic ramblings about fruit!